Alessandro Gualtieri left the large fragrance houses because they kept saying no. In 2007 he started Nasomatto in Amsterdam. The line is extraits. The official texts are short and they do not include top, heart and base. He has repeated this for years: you wear it, or you don’t.
Black Afgano, 2009, is the one he described as a search for temporary bliss, the smell of the best hashish. The cap is burnt oak. Blamage is framed as a mistake that became the brief. Pardon is built around the act of asking for forgiveness. Micodelirio, the newer bottle, is mushrooms and soil — a provocation he has not explained further.
Reviewers publish pyramids anyway. We do not reprint them. On our product pages the Nasomatto and Orto Parisi juices say the notes are unpublished, and we leave Gualtieri’s sentence in place. Perfumer H, Bienaimé and Obvious write their materials in the copy. Those houses get a list. His do not.
The refusal is not a marketing stunt that ran too long. Gualtieri trained inside the system that publishes pyramids because retailers ask for them. He left. Nasomatto’s official pages still read like notes to himself: a feeling, a mistake, a search for hashish, a request for pardon. No top. No heart. No base.
You wear it, or you don’t. That is the brief.
On forums the pyramids appear anyway, crowdsourced and confident. Incense, oud, vanilla, cannabis, leather. Some of those words are probably in the formula. Printing them would make the juice easier to sell to people who shop by note. He is not interested in those people, and neither is this shop.
Blamage is the bottle that explains the method. A mistake, kept. Most houses would have bin it and launched something cleaner. Gualtieri named the mistake and sold it. If that irritates you, the rest of the line will irritate you too.
Micodelirio, with its mushrooms, is the newest way he has found to be unhelpful. Soil, wet wood, something that grows in the dark. He has not added a paragraph. We have not added one either. You can read this piece and still know nothing that the juice will not tell you in ten minutes on a wrist.
Orto Parisi, the second house, uses the same silence with a different mythology. Grandfather, garden, body. Still no pyramid. We keep both lines complete, and we keep the unpublished line under the notes. It is the only honest caption.
A first visit: we put Black Afgano on one hand and Pardon on the other and we do not talk for a while. Conversation is for after. If you need to know whether there is vanilla in it, you are asking the wrong house.
2026-07-11 · Scents Library
